DIAMOND SHARPENING STONE BONDS: AN EASY GUIDE

Quick answer

A bond is the material that holds diamond grains on the working surface of a stone. There are three basic types. Electroplated bond cuts fastest but wears out quickly. Metal bond (for example MS-1) is the toughest, used for heavy grinding. Resin bond (for example B2-01 and OSB) gives the cleanest finish and is used for sharpening and polishing. There is also a hybrid bond called OMK, which combines the toughness of metal with the clean finish of resin. The right bond depends on how hard the steel is and which sharpening stage you are at — the full breakdown is below.

1. What a bond is, and why diamond is useless without it

Diamond on its own is just hard, sharp grains, like sand in a jar. To make those grains cut steel in a smooth, predictable way, they need to be fixed onto the surface of a stone. And they need to be held just firmly enough that each grain:

•       does not fall out the first time you press down, and

•       falls out at the right time once it wears down and loses its sharp edge, so a fresh grain is exposed underneath it.

That is the job of the bond — the base material that holds the diamond powder in place. It holds each grain firmly enough to cut, but not so firmly that the stone just slides over the steel without cutting it.

The bond controls three key things about how a stone performs:

•       Cutting speed — how fast the stone removes metal.

•       Finish quality — how clean an edge the stone leaves, without rough scratches.

•       Lifespan and how the stone renews itself — a stone with the right bond is self-sharpening: worn-out grains fall away at the right time and expose new ones, so the surface does not turn into a smooth mirror that no longer cuts.

Manufacturers around the world use different names for what are basically the same bond types. In this article we will go through the general classification of bonds and show where the specific bonds made by the Venev diamond tool plant fit in — B2-01, MS-1, OSB and OMK, sold today under the VID (Venev Industrial Diamonds) brand.

2. Bond types: from hardest to softest

All bonds fall into three basic groups: electroplated bond, metal bond and resin bond. Together they form a hardness scale, and that scale shapes how a stone behaves.

2.1. Electroplated bond

The grains are fixed in a single layer by a nickel coating, straight onto a metal base, with no thick layer of material wrapped around the crystals. Each diamond grain sticks out almost to its full height, so a tool like this cuts very aggressively — the grain digs deep into the metal right away because it sits so high above the surface.

The downside is that electroplated bond has no way to renew itself. Once the top layer of grain wears down or chips away, there is nothing left underneath it — the bond layer is thin, so the tool quickly loses its cutting power. This makes it a good choice for lapping plates and heavy, rough grinding, but a poor choice for a stone that needs to last through a long series of sharpenings.

2.2. Metal bond — the base for MS-1

Here the grain is locked into a hard tin-copper alloy — essentially into metal that is already wear-resistant on its own. The grain is held throughout the full thickness of the working layer, so the bond wears away very slowly and the stone keeps its shape for a long time — it barely loses flatness even after many hours of work.

The price for that long life is that the bond is less likely to self-sharpen: a worn-down grain is held tightly in the metal and does not always fall out when it should. That is why metal bond works best for heavy, rough grinding stages, where steady, predictable metal removal matters more than a perfectly clean surface. This is the international category that the copper-tin bond MS-1 belongs to — more on it in section 3.

2.3. Resin bond — the base for B2-01 and OSB

This bond is built on bakelite (a phenolic resin) or another polymer base, sometimes with boron carbide or copper added to control hardness. Of the three bond types, this is the softest and most flexible — it wears away more easily on its own, which means the grain renews itself more readily and faster, and the stone is easier to flatten by hand on glass with silicon carbide powder.

This is exactly why resin bond is the workhorse for sharpening steel (metal and electroplated bonds, by contrast, have historically been used more for carbide, glass, stone and ceramics). It is gentler on different types of steel, is less likely to drag and smear the edge, and gives a more predictable, controlled finish. This category includes the branded bonds B2-01 and OSB, as well as, for example, TSPROF's own resin stones.

2.4. Why so many different bonds exist

Here is the overall picture of the three basic bond groups, and where VID (Venev Industrial Diamonds) products fit within them:

3. A closer look at VID bonds: B2-01, OSB, MS-1, OMK — and the rubber bond in TSPROF Alpha

Four specific VID bonds are sold as ready-made sharpening stones:

3.1. B2-01 — the basic resin bond

B2-01 is a classic bakelite (phenolic) resin bond with added boron carbide, which makes it harder and gives it extra cutting power.

Stones with this bond can be bought here.

•       Pros: low price, easy to flatten on silicon carbide, performs well right out of the box, no complicated maintenance needed.

•       Cons: the boron carbide in the mix is a hard foreign material, and it sometimes leaves a stray, deeper scratch in the finish; the surface finish is noticeably rougher than bonds without carbide.

•       Best for: shaping the secondary bevel, main sharpening, rough and medium stages — situations where a clean finish does not matter as much as speed and predictability.

3.2. OSB — an improved resin bond with no boron carbide

OSB is VID's (Venev Industrial Diamonds) own upgraded resin bond, developed as the next step after B2-01, for cleaner and finer work.

The key difference between OSB and B2-01 is that OSB contains no boron carbide. Instead of grinding powder, it is built on ASM-grade micro powder — synthetic diamonds with normal cutting ability and no hard foreign additives in the mix.

OSB comes ready to use straight away — it does not need to be lapped on silicon carbide before first use — and it performs especially well on hard steels when sharpening at low angles, where any extra scratch on a thin edge is much more noticeable. Stones with this bond can be bought here.

•       Pros: clean finish, fewer stray scratches, ready to use right away, holds low angles well on hard steels.

•       Cons: more expensive than B2-01; on very soft, gummy steels it cuts slower than you might like, because the grain is more delicate.

•       Best for: fine sharpening, pre-polishing, finishing work on hard and powder steels.

3.3. MS-1 — a copper-tin metal bond

MS-1 belongs to the metal bond group: a hard tin-copper alloy with diamond grain spread evenly through the full thickness of the layer. Sharpeners have earned this bond the nickname "the eternal one" — the metal matrix wears away extremely slowly, so the stone barely loses flatness even after a very large amount of work.

The grain in MS-1 is held very firmly — it does not fall out before its time, which gives steady, predictable metal removal for the entire life of the stone. That is exactly the quality you need at the heavy-grinding stage: when you need to remove a lot of metal — changing the sharpening angle, removing a chipped section of the edge, or reshaping the bevel — and surface finish does not matter yet, since it will be fixed at later, softer-bond stages.

Stones with this bond can be bought here.

•       Pros: exceptional durability, stable flatness, confident cutting on any steel, including the hardest and powder steels.

•       Cons: rough finish, not well suited as a finishing stage on its own.

•       Best for: heavy grinding, shaping geometry from scratch, working on badly damaged edges — stages where speed and stability matter more than a clean finish.

3.4. OMK — a hybrid bond

OMK (short for "organometallic bond") is a modern VID (Venev Industrial Diamonds) development: a hybrid material that combines a resin base with a metal component. In English this type is correctly called organometallic bond — it is its own category, not a typo or another name for OSB. According to the manufacturer's official description, OMK contains silicon carbide, unlike B2-01, which uses boron carbide as a filler.

Stones with this bond can be bought here.

The idea behind the hybrid is to take the wear resistance and flatness of metal bond, and combine it with resin bond's ability to renew its grain more readily and give a cleaner, more controllable cut than pure metal. In practice this means a stone that lasts longer than pure resin (B2-01 or even OSB), while still giving a cleaner finish than MS-1.

•       Pros: combines the long life of metal bond with the more predictable grain renewal of resin; behaves consistently on hard and powder steels under heavy, frequent use.

•       Cons: a newer development, so there is less long-term track record and fewer reviews compared with the well-established B2-01 and MS-1; usually more expensive than basic resin.

•       Best for: the transition stage between heavy grinding and finish sharpening, and intensive professional use, where both stone life and a decent finish matter.

3.5. Rubber bond — the base for TSPROF Alpha

Rubber bond is its own category, sitting outside the standard electroplated / metal / resin group. The base is built from vulcanized rubber or a synthetic rubber-like polymer, with diamond grain locked inside it. In terms of hardness it sits between soft resin and the hybrid OMK — a bit firmer than bakelite, but noticeably softer than metal bond.

The key property of rubber bond is that its base is elastic. Unlike rigid bakelite, the rubber base flexes very slightly when it touches the blade, adapting to tiny surface irregularities. This gives a softer, more controllable feel during polishing and lowers the risk of leaving a deep, accidental scratch on a thin edge. At the finishing stage, rubber bond behaves predictably: the grain renews steadily, and stray scratches are kept to a minimum.

Stones with this bond can be bought here.

•       Pros: the elastic base lowers the risk of stray scratches at the finishing stage; a soft, controllable feel; steady grain renewal; performs well on steels up to 70 HRC.

•       Cons: less common than classic resin bond; not suited to heavy grinding or shaping geometry, since it is too soft for aggressive metal removal.

•       Best for: fine sharpening, pre-polishing, final polishing — any stage where edge cleanliness matters more than cutting speed.

4. Comparison table of VID bonds

5. How to choose the right bond for your needs

5.1. Choosing a bond based on the type of steel

The harder the steel and the bigger its carbides, the harder and more wear-resistant the bond needs to be. The softer and "gummier" the steel, the faster it clogs up a soft resin bond:

•       Soft stainless and medium-hardness carbon steels: at the finishing stage, it is better not to sharpen on the softest resin (B2-01) — soft steel clogs it quickly and the abrasive loses its cutting power. These steels do better on medium-character bonds, or by switching to OSB after the initial sharpening.

•       High-alloy and powder steels (S390, M398, CPM-Rex, Vanax and similar): large, hard carbides in the steel's structure quickly wear out a soft bond. OSB and OMK work best here — they are tough enough not to degrade on contact with abrasive carbides, while still giving a reasonably clean finish.

•       Very hard steels and jobs that involve removing a large amount of metal: MS-1 is essential here — no resin bond can survive long heavy grinding of hard powder steel without wearing out quickly.

•       High-speed steels (HSS) and tool steels: behave predictably on resin and hybrid bonds — liquid helps here by washing out metal sludge and keeping the abrasive slurry in the working area.

5.2. Choosing a bond based on the sharpening stage

A logical way to choose a stone is to move from a hard, rough bond toward a soft, fine one, as the edge gets sharper and a clean finish matters more than fast metal removal:

•       Heavy grinding / shaping geometry — MS-1 or another metal bond. Goal: remove a lot of metal quickly and set the angle.

•       Main sharpening / shaping the secondary bevel — B2-01 or OMK. Goal: bring the geometry to the working edge and remove scratches from the previous stage.

•       Fine sharpening / pre-polishing — OSB. Goal: make the surface even, remove stray scratches left by boron carbide, and prepare for the final finish.

•       Final polishing — the softest, finest-grain resin bonds, sometimes followed by polishing pastes and lapping plates. Goal: maximum cleanliness and sharpness of the edge.

This order is not a strict rule. For example, with a kitchen knife made of ordinary steel, you can skip the MS-1 stage and start straight away with B2-01, as long as the edge geometry is already in good shape and does not need to be reshaped.

6. Care and use: a short checklist

6.1. What to use when sharpening: water or oil

•       Metal bond (MS-1): liquid acts like a sponge — it washes metal sludge out of the pores and keeps the abrasive slurry in place. Plain water or soapy water both work.

•       Resin bond (B2-01, OSB): the manufacturer recommends water or soapy water. The liquid washes away metal filings so they cannot clog the pores. Working with oil is also fine and makes for a cleaner process, with less slurry splashing around.

•       Hybrid bond (OMK): liquid (water or oil) is recommended to keep the process clean — it washes away metal filings and keeps the working slurry in place, especially at rougher stages.

Sharpening dry is not a good idea with any bond: without liquid, metal filings are not washed off the surface and stay stuck in the pores, which speeds up clogging and reduces how well the stone cuts. The liquid acts as a sponge, not as a coolant.

6.2. Clogging, and how to refresh a stone

Clogging happens when metal dust (sludge) fills up the pores of a stone. The stone stops cutting and starts sliding instead. The fix is to refresh it — mechanically remove the top layer of the bond.

•       Silicon carbide on glass — the most universal method. Sprinkle a pinch of silicon carbide powder onto a piece of glass (usually grit F600–F1200 for fine stones, coarser grit for initial flattening), wet the stone with water, and rub it over the glass in random motions until you hear an even, consistent abrasive sound.

•       A dedicated cleaning stone — a separate abrasive block that you rub the working surface of your stone against. Handy when you do not want to deal with fresh powder and glass.

For metal bond (MS-1), cleaning with oil also works well: it dissolves and washes metal sludge out of the pores without mechanically wearing down the bond itself.

General rule: the softer the bond, the more often it clogs — but the easier it is to refresh. The harder the bond (metal bond), the less often it clogs seriously — but the harder it is to refresh once it does.

7. Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between B2-01 and OSB?

Both are resin bonds made by VID (Venev Industrial Diamonds). B2-01 contains boron carbide, which adds hardness but can sometimes leave a stray scratch in the finish. OSB contains no boron carbide and is built on ASM-grade micro powder instead, which gives a cleaner, more even finish and does not need to be lapped before first use.

Which bond holds up best on powder steels like S390 or M398?

For heavy grinding and shaping the geometry, the metal bond MS-1 works best — it does not degrade from the large, hard carbides found in powder steel. For sharpening and finishing the same steels afterward, OSB and OMK both work well — they are tough enough not to wear down quickly from the carbides, while giving a cleaner finish than pure metal bond.

Can you sharpen dry, without water or oil?

This is not recommended for any bond. Liquid is not used for cooling — it works as a sponge, washing metal filings out of the bond's pores. Without it, sludge builds up, the pores clog, and the stone quickly stops cutting well.

What should I do if my diamond stone stops cutting?

It has most likely clogged — the pores have filled with metal dust. You need to refresh the stone: rub it on glass with silicon carbide powder (F600–F1200 grit for fine stones), use a dedicated cleaning stone, or, for MS-1, wipe it with oil, which dissolves the metal sludge.

How is OMK different from OSB, if neither contains boron carbide?

OSB is pure resin bond, with no metal component, using ASM-grade micro powder as its filler. OMK is a hybrid (organometallic bond): a resin base plus a metal component and a silicon carbide filler. OMK lasts longer while still keeping a reasonably clean finish.

8. Conclusion

The bond is not a minor detail in a stone's name — it is the main factor that decides how the abrasive behaves: how fast it removes metal, how clean the edge ends up, and how long the stone will last. Hard bonds (electroplated, metal bond / MS-1) give speed and durability at the cost of a rougher finish. Soft resin bonds (B2-01, OSB) give cleanliness and ease of control at the cost of wearing down faster. Hybrid solutions like OMK try to take the best of both groups. Rubber bond (TSPROF Alpha) fills its own niche as a soft, finishing-stage tool with an elastic base. Once you understand this, choosing a stone stops being a guessing game based on reviews and becomes a simple calculation: what steel are you working with, what stage of sharpening are you at — and which bond is physically best suited to handle that job.

All the VID bonds described in this article — B2-01, OSB, MS-1 and OMK — are available as ready-made sharpening stones in the Venev Industrial Diamonds section.